Reviewed Jan 20th, by Kindageeky. Perfectly quiet preamp, ideal vintage kit. This website is not affiliated with or sponsored by NAD. To purchase spares or accessories, please contact the company via their website or visit an authorised retailer. Gallery Requests Search. NAD Pre Amplifiers A child will tell you what they like for sure if you want the truth about bypassing caps. I am not giving an opinion here at all.
Unbiased electrolytics are a problem, but there is sometimes no other way. I am still looking for a schemtic for the NAD I would greatly appreciate it if someone could share one.
How long do electrolytic caps ussually last? Hi GG, Electrolytics can last over 20 yrs, or less than 2 yrs. It depends on how hot they run, and the level of ripple current through them. The quality of the capacitor matters as well. There have been defective runs of caps before. If you are looking to get the best quality, consider replacing the electrolytic capacitors.
If you have 1 uF coupling caps, replace them with film caps at this time. I have a too I'm interested in upgrading It's not exactly the same though, as it doesn't have the MM capacitance switch or tone controls..
Don't know if you've noticed but a UK company called fidele audio does upgrades to the original which these are all similar too and has quite specific details about these.. HI, I have the schematic and the preamp section is pretty much the same.
There are some differences, but I think that is because mine is a B. The capacitor upgrades are fairly obvious. For the pre-amp, I don't think beefing up the PSU will help much. What do they charge to do that service to the ? That is a lot of work to replace all of those caps. Cheers, Gio. NAD and I have owned both the and and the problem you described is very common and has strange symptoms, and an even stranger cause. I originally suspected a bad power supply diode, because you can see the garbage in the DC power suppy output on a scope.
The power switch on these things gets a high resistance condition in the contacts that causes wierd things, including what you describe frying noises in the audio, or sputtering. The switch is very marginally rated, and the solution I found was to replace it with a new 1. I glued a relay with a plastic case upside down between the switch and transformer on the circuit board using epoxy. I did this on two s and one with good results. Just get a multi-purpose relay with v or v coil and 10A rated contacts.
Bartokfan apparently wasn't very well brought up. I've got the identical set of gear running two pairs of speakers as I type. Absolutely reliable performance, for what, decades now? I do have to clean the volume pot on the fairly regularly, and the source switches occasionally, maybe every couple of years.
Oh -- the "Tape" button got funky once, and needed to be cleaned -- that was causing no joy when I was playing CD's.
The has never needed anything. Hosfeld, take it one step at a time, and check things one step at a time. If you have a small set of speakers to set next to the amp, it might be helpful hook them up and just check, check, check. It'll take a little time -- be patient. Pull and clean wires and jacks as necessary Your help is greatly appreciated.
With patience, I hope to get this resolved. I did try to help, dump the NAD and get something used here and much better.
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