Due to that, I will omit it from this discussion. It is measured in degrees. At zero degrees of camber, the tire is exactly straight up and down. Camber is a very useful adjustment because as the car goes into the corner, the force causes the outer wheel to compress and the friction on the bottom of the tire in contact with the racing surface causes it be to forced inward or outward on the inner wheels.
Toe is a useful adjustment to ensure that as you turn the wheel in the corner you get optimum camber angle and that both tires are turning the car as evenly as possible.
Toe is adjusted primarily at the tie rod. You can measure the toe by rolling the car back and forth, taking a measurement, making your adjustment, and repeating the process. Do this until you get two measurements that are very close to your desired toe.
Rear wheel adjustments other than camber are usually more difficult to perform. Ask your fellow competitors what adjustments they make to their car. Take all the information, as well as what you gather using your eyes, into your setup. Take notes and monitor how your car performs with each setup.
Engine Modifications and Tune Up Check your track rules to see what you are allowed to modify or upgrade with the engine. There are a multitude of modifications that are promoted by various online forums. Check your rulebook, and evaluate if you want to spend the money, time, or both to try to get more speed out of the car.
Engine maintenance is a must. You will be taking a car motor designed for somewhat low RPMs, various lower speeds and pushing it to its limit. This requires that it have fresh oil, clean filters and at a somewhat regular interval, spark plugs, and timing belts changed out. A fresh oil change and new set of plugs in a motor will often make it come to life. You must be logged in to view this image or video. Last edited: May 22, Tyeler18 Proven Member.
How much can you alter suspension angles? You can make it dog track by adjusting rear suspension angles to induce rear steer. If it looks stock or somewhat stock then I can do it. The thing is if I win I get inspected. What are your current alignment settings? Redneck I used to do the same thing a few years ago, I chopped the springs on the drivers side, and removed the front swaybar also, I didn't want to spend any cash, and really couldn't add anything but stock parts.
A local guy I talked to races these as well. I noticed when looking over his car he has the brake master cylinder setup strange. Some how I believe instead of having it split to apply most pressure to your front brakes and the rest to the rear. His was setup so most pressure was on the driver side of the vehicle and the lesser pressure on the passenger side, this was to help pitch it.
I'm unsure of his class but he did have different springs on his car other than stock. I haven't aligned it yet. At the last race I bent something up front because the steering wheel is about 90 degrees off. I am going to fix it and then align it.
Click to expand My brother races what they call "hornet" cars in Indiana. They won't let you run a DSM there. Their rules "the right front can be leaned slightly" although I would lean it crazy both front and rear on the right side, of course if rules allow. Boost4U Proven Member. What about running a shim on the top hat of the drivers side front strut to get some wedge into the car. What kind of camber adjustments can you make? I run in a street class we don't have any rules as far as suspension, the only requirement is the car has to be street legal and inspected.
Tire pressures are a huge deal too. I've never raced on dirt so I'm of little help to you but that is my experience with asphalt. Hope this helps. Cool car by the way. Last edited: Jun 6, First: that looks like a total blast. Do you have any build pictures of this? I find it very intriguing and want to see more The suspension is all stock there, I think the angle just looks a little weird.
The rear unfortunately has no alignment adjustments but I am looking into ways to mess with the front camber. The above picture seems to show positive outside front camber. Its a Fiat Punto HGT Tyres are R15's on a 7inch rim Suspension uses standard pick up points on front and rear but all bushings have been replaced with spherical bearings. Rear suspension is a trailing rear arm think thats what its called The spring is compressed between the axle beam and the under side of the car.
Will toeing the back IN not create extra grip? Rather than letting it loosen up a bit. Maybe its just fine tuning that will get this last bit rather than going back to the drawing board?
As for how the car handles - through fast corners its a match or quicker than everyone but in the more techinal corners I seem to be later on the power! Last edited by Point-5; 13 Jun at Good if my budget allowed it I would have gone very stiff. Tire type too. Does the car have limited slip diff? In tight corners there will be weight transfer away from the inside wheels to the outside both front and rear.
The end of the car front or rear that is more stiff, will tend to transfer more weight to the outside wheel. If the front is quite stiff and you don't have limited slip diff, then the weight transfers away from the inside front wheel and then it just spins when you try to accelerate out of the corner.
Is this what happens to you? Cars with a softer front but stiffer rear probably get better drive out of the tight corners. Last edited by alfasud; 14 Jun at The reason I'm later on the power is for 2 reasons 1 Mid corner its hard to keep on apex, I'm using the brake a bit to hold it into the corner and 2 its washing out slightly on exit I could live with that though I know the logic behind getting the rear to move around but I can't seem to achieve it on this car - when I stiffen up the rear it gets too hoppy into the corners and the back literally starts to leave the ground on turn in Its also a second a lap slower.
The back end doesn't really step out that much even on lift off which is a indication to me anyway that the rear has too much grip. I have a tyre pyro meter yeah and I reckon I have the pressure's sorted.
They are pretty even but slightly hotter on inside. Only about 10degres Celsius from inisde to outside. Re: The rear settings - I have it toe'd square with about 1 degree of neg camber. This is something I'm gonna play around with in testing too. Tyres are Dunlops compound and its a set tyre for the class. So can't change it. I am getting wheel spin but not in excess. I'd imagine without a LSD you are never gonna eliminate wheelspin completely?
Toe is something that is worth playing with but be carefull! Toe-in gives stability, so the car wants to go straight, if you go for toe-out on the front the car will turn in better but it may not go straight down the straights and can get twitchy when you hit bumps.
Toe-out on the rear can give oversteer big oversteer So if you play with toe just go a little at a time and ONLY do one end of the car at a time. Sometimes you have to take a long hard look at the specs of a standard car and ask yourself what the manufacturer was trying to achieve The factory wheel specs for my car.
The car is a Morris !
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